In addition to the fabric, some parts also need to be cut from fusible interfacing. These are the outer and inner collars (if you are sewing the collar version), the pocket facings, the sleeve cuffs, and the front facings. You then fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric pieces. It is best to follow the manufacturer's instructions for this.
Once all pattern pieces are cut and the ones mentioned above are fused with interfacing, leave the paper pattern pieces pinned to the fabric because now the markings need to be transferred to the fabric. I always transfer the notches (small marks) at the edges of the paper pattern pieces (hem, front and back center, sleeve markings) with a small cut into the seam allowance. Caution! Do not cut beyond the seam allowance (1 cm)...
It is very important that you transfer the markings on the hem and the front facing. These will be important later for inserting the lining!
I first transferred the pocket markings to the wrong side of the fabric using tracing paper and a tracing wheel, then basted them onto the right side. This way, you can clearly see from the right where the pockets should be placed.
Now it's finally time to sew. Specifically, the lower pockets with the wing flaps. Please take your time here so that the curves can be nicely shaped in the end.
First, sew the facing right sides together with the lining. You can best check this by placing the facing right sides together on the outer fabric pocket, because in the next step the lining must be sewn to the outer fabric pocket.
This is how the facing lies correctly! Now the lining is sewn right sides together against the facing.
In the next step, place the finished pocket lining right sides together against the outer fabric pocket. Note that the lining is 0.3 mm smaller all around. You need to pull it slightly towards the edge, pin it, and then topstitch.
To make the curves of the pockets even smoother, set the sewing machine to the smallest possible stitch length when sewing the curves. This way, you avoid "rushing" over the curves...
Leave a seam opening of about 5 cm at the bottom edge of the pocket. The pocket will be turned through this opening. (In the photo, I should have placed the pockets differently to make it clear where the bottom edge is. So here is the marking again, showing where the bottom edge is in the pattern...)
After topstitching, trim the seam allowances in the curves back by half and cut the corners diagonally.
The pockets are then turned and the curves and corners carefully shaped out. I often do this CAREFULLY with a pin or a pointed pair of scissors.
It’s important that you don’t press the pockets first! There are two ways to topstitch the pockets onto the front piece. In one (nicer but fiddlier) way, the topstitching is not visible. For this option, you must first close the seam opening. I did it by hand so that this seam is not visible on the pocket in the end.
If you want to make it easier, you can also topstitch the pockets close to the edge onto the front pieces. The seam will be visible, but it’s easier and you can close the seam opening during this step.
For both options, first position the pockets on the front pieces and pin them in place. For the option without visible seams, pull the outer fabric back slightly and pin only the lining close to the edge.
And only the lining is topstitched close to the edge onto the front piece.
The outer fabric then rolls over the lining and the seam, and no seam is visible. And now you may press…
Topstitching with the sewing machine is a bit of an adventure (especially on the curves). If you’re unsure, you could do this by hand or choose the simpler option as mentioned.
Now pin the pocket lining right sides together against the outer fabric pocket and stitch along the top edge. Again, leave a seam opening for turning the pocket.
Then pull the lining down and close the remaining edges of the pocket. Note that here too, the lining is 3 mm smaller than the outer fabric so that it nicely rolls over the lining at the end. You need to pull the lining slightly to the edge and pin it.
Trim the seam allowances in the curves back by half. Carefully snip the seam allowance at the tip of the pocket with a pointed pair of scissors.
Now turn the pocket and carefully shape the corners and curves with a pin or a sharp pair of scissors.
Now you can close the seam opening.
Do not press the breast pocket yet and pin it to the marking on the left front piece. As with the lower pocket, you can choose the simple version and topstitch the pocket from the right side close to the edge. Or you can push the outer fabric a bit to the side again and then pin and stitch only the lining. With this version, the seam is not visible.
All pockets are now topstitched onto the front pieces!
Now place the yoke right sides together against the back piece and pin.
Topstitch and press seam allowances open.
Now pin the front pieces right sides together to the back piece and first only sew the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open again.
Now we finish the outer fabric jacket. First, sew the sleeve cuffs right sides together to the sleeve hem. Press seam allowances open.
Now pin the sleeves right sides together to the armhole of the jacket. Pay attention to the markings on the front and back pieces, as well as the shoulder markings. They must always align.
The two notches on the front piece match the two notches on the sleeve.
The shoulder notch on the sleeve matches the shoulder seam.
The one notch on the back piece matches the one notch on the sleeve.
After topstitching, press the seam allowances of the sleeve seam open. Now close the underarm and side seams in one step. For this, close each sleeve right sides together into a tube and pin. Stitch and press seam allowances open.
Now fold the jacket hem 4 cm and press. Also note the hem markings on the pattern here.
Now we attach the outer collar. You have transferred the center front, shoulder, and back center markings onto the outer collar. These are placed right sides together at the center front on the front piece, at the shoulder seam, and the back center on the back piece.
Center front notch in the collar at the center front notch in the front piece.
Shoulder notch in the collar at the shoulder seam. Press seam allowances open.
The collar is now attached and the outer fabric jacket is fully sewn! Now it's time for the lining jacket.
I had already pointed out that it is important to transfer all notches, especially in the hem area, onto the fabric. These are important in the following steps! The front facings are first pinned right sides together against the lining front pieces and topstitched. Note that the facing is 1 cm longer at the hem than the lining. The notches on the front pieces and facings serve as a guide line for pinning and stitching. They must meet.
It is also important that you only stitch up to the notch, i.e., the seam must end 2 cm before the lining hem.
After you have topstitched the facings, press the seam allowances into the lining piece. Next, close the shoulder seams. For this, pin the front pieces right sides together against the back piece and topstitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Then the sleeves are reinserted into the open armhole. This is done the same way as with the Outer fabric jacket – consider the notches for front, back, and shoulder seams.
Now as with the Outer fabric jacket Pin the sleeves right sides together into a tube and sew the underarm and side seams in one step. Leave a seam opening about 20 cm long in the left sleeve. The jacket will be turned through this later. Press the seam allowances open again.
Finally, attach the inner collar to the lining neckline. Pin it right sides together and topstitch. Again, pay attention to the center back and the shoulder seam marks or shoulder seam. The collar ends at the end of the neckline.
So, the lining jacket is now sewn – let's turn back to the outer fabric jacket, because before inserting the lining, the zipper must be inserted. Open the zipper and first pin the side without the slider to the right front piece. Note that the zipper teeth start 1.5 cm below the collar top edge!
The zipper ends at the hem fold line, i.e., 4 cm before the hem cut edge.
Now pin the zipper right sides together against the front edge. The zipper tape lies flush with the cut edge of the outer fabric. Topstitch with the zipper foot.
Lay the excess tape to the side when topstitching.
Also pin and topstitch the tape with the slider onto the left front side. Again, pay attention to the distance from the collar and the end! When sewing in, leave the needle in the fabric just before the slider, lift the presser foot, pull the slider up, then lower the presser foot and needle again and continue sewing.
The zipper is in and ideally opens and closes easily and smoothly… :)
As the last step before inserting the lining into the jacket (yeah!), fold and pre-press the sleeve cuffs on the outer fabric jacket.
Now the front edge is interfaced first. For this, pin the front edge of the lining jacket right sides together, aligning the cut edges, against the front edge of the outer fabric jacket and topstitch. Note that the facing is 1 cm longer than the zipper. It is topstitched all the way to the end.
I used the zipper foot again for topstitching. This makes it easier because the edge of the already topstitched zipper is caught along.
After stitching the front edge, first fold the seam allowance at the hem inward and pin. The facing is set back by 0.5 cm this way.
Now the front facing (only the facing!) is topstitched to the outer fabric jacket up to 1 cm before the facing/lining seam.
Then pull the lining hem down and pin it right sides together against the cut edge of the outer fabric jacket. This will pull the outer fabric jacket upwards after turning and it will naturally lay into the pre-pressed hem fold. Topstitch the lining hem all around to the edge of the outer fabric jacket.
You can now generously trim the seam allowances in the front area.
The front edge and the hem are now interfaced, now it's time for the collar. Here, first fold the seam allowance at the upper edge of the collar inward and pin. Then pin the upper edge of the inner collar right sides together against the outer collar edge and topstitch.
Cut the seam allowances diagonally at the corners and carefully notch at the curves so that the collar lays nicely in the end.
Now all edges are understitched and you can already turn the jacket right side out. To do this, pull it through the seam opening in the left sleeve. Carefully work out the edges.
Not much left to do - only the sleeves need to be understitched, the seam opening in the left sleeve closed, and the zipper topstitched.
First for understitching: Reach through the seam opening between the outer fabric sleeve and lining sleeve and move your hand forward to the sleeve cuff.
Now grab the hem of the lining sleeve at the underarm seam and pull it out a bit. Make sure the lining sleeve does not twist.
Now fold the hem of the lining sleeve so that in the next step you can place it right sides together against the outer fabric cuff.
The underarm seams meet. Hold both hems well from the inside with your index finger and thumb and pull through the seam opening in a lining and outer fabric sleeve.
This is how it looks then. Now first pin the seams right sides together and then topstitch all around the lining hem right sides together against the outer fabric hem.
Stitch together with 1 cm seam allowance. Turn the sleeve into the jacket through the seam opening and press the hem fold edges.
Do the same now on the other sleeve. To do this, reach through the seam opening again and move your hand between the lining and outer fabric along the back of the jacket until you can grab the hems again.
Et voilà, the lining is completely sewn in. Now close the seam opening close to the edge. For this, first fold in and pin the seam allowances of the opening. When topstitching, make sure you only sew the lining and do not accidentally catch the outer fabric sleeve.
Now topstitch the zipper from the right side close to the edge. To do this, first push the outer fabric slightly over the zipper, iron if necessary. This works great with a metal zipper; with plastic, be careful not to melt the teeth!
Topstitch the zipper close to the edge on both sides using the zipper foot.
Now just nicely iron all edges and possibly hand-baste the flap wings on the pockets so they don't always flip up on you.
The Jacket Mimi is now finished!
