Note: If you want to sew the dress without sleeves and without a bow tie, first trim the seam allowance (1 cm) at the armhole and neckline!
Fuse interfacing to the cuff facings and neckline facing (for the version with bow tie). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Close the waist darts in the front and back pieces. For this, align the dart markings so the lines match exactly. The right side of the fabric is inside. Sew from the wide side to the tip. Secure the seam start and taper off the seam at the end. Press the darts toward the front or back center.
Finish the cut edges of the shoulders, back center, and side seams of the upper front and back pieces with a zigzag stitch. Pin the front piece right sides together to the back pieces. Close shoulder seams.
The armholes are finished with bias tape. For this, fold the cut bias tape lengthwise and press. The wrong side of the fabric is inside. Open the tape and pin right sides together to the armholes. The fold edge of the tape lies about 1.5 cm from the seam line (1 cm) and the raw edges lie on the seam allowance. Topstitch, trim seam allowances. Fold the bias tape inward and topstitch from the right side in the seam shadow.
Pin the front piece right sides together to the back pieces and close side seams. Press seam allowances open.
Finish the cut edges of the skirt side seams and back center with a zigzag stitch. Create and pin pleats in the front and back skirt. Pay attention to the markings. Secure with basting thread if necessary. Pin the back skirt pieces right sides together to the front skirt and side seams.Close seams. Press seam allowances open. Pin the back skirt pieces right sides together and close the back center seam up to the zipper marking. Press seam allowances open.
Pin the skirt right sides together to the bodice and topstitch. Finish the seam allowances together and press upwards. Finish the skirt hem with a zigzag stitch, fold in 1 cm and then fold up 5 cm. Topstitch from the right side at just under 5 cm. Sew in an invisible zipper or press the back center seam allowance 1 cm and topstitch the regular zipper concealed.
Sew a small dart at the front center so that the neckline forms a V-shape here. Fold the protruding bias tape at the back center and sew it by hand to the zipper tape.